A Walk Along the Jew Street
7:12 AMJew Street |
Jew Street in Mattancherry is the legendary enclave that is one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world. It took a while from Fort Kochi to reach the stone paved street. It was quite a walk among the old buildings that thrived on spice trade for decades. The time was 06:30 AM and the roads were empty. After meandering the narrow roads sidelined by the body of water that divided the city from the old town, we slipped into narrow streets one after the other. Some buildings are like wine, they enchant as they turn older and older. Finally we reached the street we were looking for - Jew Street in Mattancherry. It turned out to be well preserved and distinct from those one may come across in Kerala. The buildings in that street were at least a couple of centuries old. And they were inhabited.
Paradesi Synagogue, Fort Kochi |
Jew street, as it is called is a 200 meter long walk down the memory lane. Lined with pastel colored houses and shops that sell antiques, jewelry, art, furniture and sculptures. It was great to find out that a few of the inhabitants of the street were indeed the descendants of a fast dwindling population of Jews who settled down in Cochin in AD 52. The street has got a thousand stories to share for the ones who are keen enough to listen. We met many tourists from Israel who visited the synagogue. Our host was Yaheh Hallegua, who was in charge of the Paradesi Synagogue, handling entrance fees and monitoring attire. The synagogue was built in 1568. The Paradesi Synagogue is the oldest active synagogue in the Commonwealth of Nations.
Jewish Cemetery, Mattancherry |
The Paradesi Synagogue has its treasure of memories to share with every passerby. From the Scrolls of the Law to several gold crowns the rich tradition is preserved intact. As we walked by the Belgian glass chandeliers we slipped into a different time and perspective. The floor of the synagogue is composed of hundreds of beautiful Chinese porcelain tiles. A hand-knotted oriental rug which was a gift from Haile Selassie, the last Ethiopian emperor, still greets the visitors. The synagogue has an 18th century clock tower, which is still functional. The clock tower was restored in 1998 under the direction of the World Monuments Fund.
Cochin Jews, also called Malabar Jews and Yuda Mappila, are the oldest group of Jews in India, with roots claimed to date to the time of King Solomon 950 BC, though historically attested migration dates from the fall of Jerusalem. From then Cochin became a safe heaven for Jews who were subjected to religious persecution around the world. They shared a favorable relationship with the ruling class and indulged to enrich trade and commerce of that region. Moreover Jewish Community became the only community of foreigners who had not waged a war against any of the Indian monarchies and princely states. Once one of the oldest Jewish communities in the world, but now many of the inhabitants have moved to Israel and the once bustling Jewish community has now immigrated or have merged with the general population. The nearby Market Road still bustles with spice trade that tells the legacy of an era gone by. Though the official timings are from 10 AM, I felt that it is best to visit this place by sunrise to avoid the crowd and to strike friendly conversations with its inhabitants.
2 comments
This is a great article with the best photographs ofcourse.. Nice to see the new look of your blog... Keep writing ☺ looking forward to see lots more of your writing
ReplyDeleteThanks Bilna for the inspiration and motivation. Cheers
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